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Lhotse

The fourth-highest peak at 8,516 metres, linked to Everest by the South Col in the heart of the Khumbu.

Lhotse, at 8,516 metres, is the world's fourth-highest mountain and Everest's immediate neighbour. Joined to the higher peak by the South Col, it forms part of the dramatic skyline that draws trekkers up the Khumbu Valley.

Overview

The name Lhotse means south peak in Tibetan, reflecting its position just south of Everest. It is one of the cluster of Khumbu eight-thousanders and is famous for its colossal south face, a wall of rock and ice rising more than three kilometres that ranks among the steepest and most formidable big faces in the Himalaya. Climbers heading for Everest cross the lower part of the Lhotse Face on their way to the South Col, so the two peaks share much of the same route and the same Base Camp. Lhotse also has subsidiary summits, Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar, which were among the last named summits over 8,000 metres to be climbed.

Height and location

At 8,516 metres (27,940 feet), Lhotse ranks fourth in the world. It lies at roughly 27.96° N, 86.93° E in the Khumbu region of northeastern Nepal, on the Tibetan border. Because it shares Everest's approach, it sits at the head of the same glaciated valley above the village of Gorak Shep, within Sagarmatha National Park. From the valley floor the bulk of Lhotse is partly hidden behind the long west shoulder of Everest, but its great face and summit come fully into view higher up.

First ascent and climbing

The first ascent was made on 18 May 1956 by Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss of a Swiss team that, in the same expedition, also put climbers on the summit of Everest. The standard route follows the Everest approach through the Khumbu Icefall and up the Lhotse Face before veering right into a steep couloir leading to the summit. Because so much of the route overlaps with Everest, Lhotse is sometimes climbed by mountaineers in the same season, yet it is a serious peak in its own right. The towering south face, first climbed only in 1990, remains one of mountaineering's great challenges.

How to see it

Lhotse is best seen on the Everest Base Camp trek, which passes directly beneath its enormous face on the walk to base camp. From the viewpoint of Kala Patthar it stands shoulder to shoulder with Everest, and it dominates the head of the valley above Gorak Shep. Lower down the trail it appears alongside the elegant Ama Dablam and, from the Gokyo valley to the west, near Cho Oyu. No climbing is needed to enjoy these views.

Fast facts

FactDetail
Height8,516 m (27,940 ft)
Rank4th highest in the world
LocationKhumbu, Nepal–Tibet border
First ascent18 May 1956, Luchsinger and Reiss
MeaningSouth peak
Best accessEverest Base Camp trek

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Frequently asked questions

How tall is Lhotse?+

Lhotse stands 8,516 metres (27,940 feet) high, making it the fourth-highest mountain in the world.

Where is Lhotse located?+

Lhotse sits in the Khumbu region of northeastern Nepal, directly south of Everest. The two peaks are joined by the South Col and share the same approach up the Khumbu Valley.

Who first climbed Lhotse?+

Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss of a Swiss expedition made the first ascent on 18 May 1956. Their route shared much of the lower Everest approach before branching to the Lhotse Face.

How is Lhotse related to Everest?+

Lhotse and Everest are connected by the South Col, a high saddle around 7,900 metres. Climbers on both peaks share the same Base Camp, Khumbu Icefall and the steep Lhotse Face on the way up.

How can I see Lhotse?+

The Everest Base Camp trek passes directly beneath the Lhotse Face, and the peak is a prominent part of the skyline from Kala Patthar and the upper Khumbu valley.

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