Getting around · Nepal
Mustang Motorbike Tour: Riding Up to Lo Manthang
The marquee Himalayan ride — up the Kali Gandaki from Pokhara to Jomsom, Muktinath and the walled city of Lo Manthang, with permits, bike and season covered.
The Mustang motorbike tour is the marquee Himalayan ride in Nepal: a climb up the Kali Gandaki — the world's deepest river gorge — from Pokhara to Jomsom and Muktinath, and on through the restricted north to Lo Manthang, the walled former capital of the old Kingdom of Lo. It is rough, high, dusty and unforgettable, and it sits at the top of our motorbike tours in Nepal hub for good reason.
The short answer
Ride from Pokhara (or Beni) up the Kali Gandaki to Jomsom, then climb to Muktinath at around 3,800 m. As far as Jomsom and Muktinath you are in Lower Mustang, which needs only the ACAP permit. To carry on north of Kagbeni into Upper Mustang and reach Lo Manthang, you cross into a restricted area: that means the Upper Mustang permit, a registered guide and a minimum of two riders. The track above Jomsom demands real off-road skill, a capable bike, and the autumn or spring seasons. Sort the paperwork first with our Mustang permits and access guide.
The route: Pokhara to Jomsom to Muktinath to Lo Manthang
The ride leaves the Pokhara valley and heads west, picking up the Kali Gandaki at Beni and following the river deep between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs. The road steadily roughens as you gain height through Tatopani and into the Kali Gandaki gorge.
- Pokhara → Beni → Tatopani: the lower, greener section, mostly rideable for confident riders, with the road deteriorating as you climb.
- → Jomsom: the windswept administrative hub of Mustang and the practical gateway. From here up, expect rocky riverbed track, dust and crosswinds. See the full overland options in Pokhara to Jomsom and Muktinath.
- → Muktinath: a steep climb to the sacred temple complex at about 3,800 m, the highest point of the Lower Mustang loop and the turnaround for many riders.
- → Kagbeni → Lo Manthang: the restricted Upper Mustang leg, north into Tibetan-influenced badlands to the walled medieval capital.
For day-by-day pacing of the lower section, our Jomsom–Muktinath itinerary is a useful companion, and if you are weighing two wheels against trekking, see Upper Mustang vs the Annapurna Circuit.
Permits and rules
This is the part that catches riders out. Lower Mustang — Jomsom, Kagbeni and Muktinath — is not restricted and needs only the ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area) entry permit.
Upper Mustang, everything north of Kagbeni up to Lo Manthang, is a restricted area, and the rules are strict:
- The Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit — roughly USD 500 for 10 days, then about USD 50 per extra day.
- The ACAP permit on top of that.
- A registered guide travelling with you.
- A minimum of two travellers — solo riders are not permitted.
Treat these as the standing rule, but check the current rates and rules before committing, as fees and requirements change. We keep the detail current in Mustang permits and access and break down the cost in Upper Mustang permit cost.
The bike, the skills and the difficulty
This is not a paved-highway tour. Above Jomsom the route is rough, rocky riverbed and switchback track, often dusty, with river and stream crossings and thin air at altitude. The standard mount is a Royal Enfield Himalayan or a similar dual-sport, either your own or a machine hired with a guide — sort that out through our renting a motorbike in Nepal guide.
You need genuine off-road experience to ride above Jomsom: loose surfaces, big steps, water and exposure all reward a calm, practised rider and punish an over-confident one. Most riders who have not ridden rough Himalayan track before should go with a guided group or build up first on the easier Annapurna Circuit motorbike tour or the gentler Kathmandu Valley day rides. Carry the right documents too — see driving in Nepal for licence and IDP rules.
Season and costs
Plan around the dry, stable windows:
- Autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May) are the best seasons — clear mountain views and reliable conditions.
- Monsoon (June–September): Mustang sits in the Himalayan rain-shadow and stays comparatively dry up high, so it is sometimes ridden in the monsoon shoulder — but the access roads lower down toward Pokhara are landslide-prone, which can strand or delay you.
- Winter: very cold, windy and often snow-affected at altitude; only for the well-prepared.
On costs, budget for the permits above (the big fixed expense for Upper Mustang), bike hire or fuel, the guide (mandatory in the restricted zone), and food and lodging in teahouses and guesthouses along the way. Prices shift, so confirm current figures locally rather than relying on a fixed quote. For the broader picture of when Mustang is at its best, see best time to visit Mustang; to slot this into a wider trip, browse the scenic road trips of Nepal.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a permit to ride a motorbike to Upper Mustang?+
Yes. Upper Mustang — everything north of Kagbeni up to Lo Manthang — is a restricted area. You need the Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit (roughly USD 500 for 10 days, then about USD 50 per extra day), plus the ACAP entry permit, a registered guide and a minimum of two travellers; solo riders are not allowed. Lower Mustang as far as Jomsom and Muktinath needs only the ACAP permit. Always check the current rates and rules before you go.
How many days is a Mustang motorbike tour?+
A ride from Pokhara up to Jomsom and Muktinath and back can be done in around four to six days. Continuing into Upper Mustang to reach Lo Manthang typically needs about eight to twelve days, partly because the restricted permit is sold in 10-day blocks and partly because the rough roads and high altitude demand a steady pace and acclimatisation. Times vary with weather and road conditions.
How hard is the Mustang ride, and what bike do you need?+
It is demanding above Jomsom: the track up the Kali Gandaki is rough, rocky and dusty, with river crossings and high altitude — Muktinath sits at about 3,800 m. A Royal Enfield Himalayan or a similar dual-sport, or a hired bike taken with a guide, is the usual choice. You need strong off-road riding skills beyond Jomsom; below it the road is easier.
When is the best season for a Mustang motorbike tour?+
Autumn (October–November) and spring (April–May) are the prime windows for clear skies and stable conditions. Mustang lies in the Himalayan rain-shadow, so it stays comparatively dry even in the monsoon shoulder, but the access roads lower down toward Pokhara are landslide-prone in the monsoon, and winter is bitterly cold and windy at altitude.
