Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the royal heart of the old city, a wide plaza ringed by palaces, temples and statues from the Malla era. Despite damage in the 2015 earthquake, much has been restored, and it remains one of the Kathmandu Valley's grandest spaces.

A little history

Bhaktapur was once one of three rival kingdoms that shared the Kathmandu Valley, alongside Kathmandu and Patan. Its Malla kings poured their wealth into palaces, temples and courtyards, and the square you walk today is largely a legacy of that age. The old town forms one of the monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley, which is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Compared with the capital, Bhaktapur has kept more of its brick-and-timber character, and the durbar square is the centrepiece of that living old town.

What to see

• The 55-Window Palace, the former royal residence, named for the long carved wooden balcony that runs along its upper storey.
• The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka), a richly gilded doorway that leads through to the palace's inner courtyards and the Taleju temple complex.
• The stone Vatsala Temple, built in the North Indian shikhara style, with a large bronze bell standing beside it.
• The tall column topped by a statue of King Bhupatindra Malla, who kneels facing the palace he built up.

Take your time in the surrounding lanes too. Bhaktapur is known for its wood carving and pottery, and workshops and small stalls sit within a few minutes' walk of the square. It is also famous for juju dhau, the thick "king curd" served in clay bowls — worth trying while you wander.

Getting there

Bhaktapur lies toward the eastern side of the Kathmandu Valley, and the durbar square sits at the top of the old town. Most visitors arrive by taxi or by local bus from Kathmandu; the journey is short in distance but traffic can stretch it out, so allow extra time either way. From the ticket gates it is a flat, pedestrian walk into the square — the historic core is largely closed to through traffic, which makes it pleasant to explore on foot.

Best time to visit

Come early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The light is kinder for photographs, the day-trip coaches have yet to arrive or have already left, and you can hear the square rather than the crowds. Autumn and spring generally bring the clearest skies and the most comfortable temperatures for walking the old town.

If you can time it with Bisket Jatra, the local new-year festival celebrated in Bhaktapur around mid-April, you will see the square at its liveliest, with tall chariots hauled through the streets. Expect big crowds on festival days, and check the dates locally, as they follow the Nepali calendar rather than fixed Western ones.

Nearby sights

You are within a few minutes' walk of several of Bhaktapur's best-known sights. The soaring Nyatapola Temple, a multi-storey pagoda, stands over the adjoining Taumadhi Square, while Pottery Square is where you will find rows of clay pots drying in the sun and potters working their wheels. Further into the old town, Dattatreya (Tachupal) Square is home to the intricately carved Peacock Window, one of the finest pieces of woodwork in the valley. It is easy to string all of these together into a slow half-day on foot.

Good to know

• Foreign visitors pay an entry fee for the old-city heritage zone, which covers the durbar square and the wider historic centre. Keep your ticket handy, as it can be checked at the gates and, on request, used across more than one day.
• Wear comfortable shoes: the streets are brick-paved and uneven, and the best of Bhaktapur is seen slowly and on foot.
• Come early or late to avoid the midday crowds. From here it's a short walk to the Nyatapola Temple and Pottery Square.