Trekking · Jiri
Jiri to Shivalaya and Bhandar
The opening stage of the Jiri walk-in: from the Shivalaya roadhead over the Deurali pass to Bhandar.
The first stage of the classic walk-in runs from the Shivalaya roadhead over the Deurali pass to the Sherpa village of Bhandar, and it sets the tone for the entire route: a big climb, a high pass dressed in prayer flags, then a long descent into a green farming valley. This is where the Everest journey changes gear from jeeps and tarmac to porters, trails and the steady rhythm of the foothills.
Leaving the road at Shivalaya
Most trekkers now take a jeep beyond Jiri Bazaar to Shivalaya, the riverside village where the motor road ends and the foot trail begins in earnest. At around 1,800 metres beside a clear river, it is the traditional first overnight stop, with a cluster of basic lodges and a permit checkpoint. Walkers who want the full historic experience start on foot from Jiri itself, adding a couple of hours down to Shivalaya before the real climb.
Over the Deurali pass
From Shivalaya the path immediately tests you, climbing several hundred metres of sustained switchbacks to the Deurali pass, marked by prayer flags, mani walls and a handful of tea shops. This is the first of the route's many ridge crossings. The reward is a long descent on the far side into the Likhu country, with views opening across the terraced hills of lower Solu.
Arriving in Bhandar
The day ends at Bhandar, a Sherpa village set in a green bowl of terraced fields below forested ridges at around 2,200 metres. Here you get your first real taste of the Sherpa Buddhist world that defines the higher route: a small gompa, chortens painted with watchful eyes, and lines of prayer flags above the farmland. It makes a peaceful second night, with simple lodges and home-cooked meals. To understand the people of these villages, read our guide to Jirel and Sherpa culture around Jiri.
Where this fits
This stage is the opening chapter of the classic Jiri-to-Everest route. From Bhandar the trail drops to the Likhu Khola and climbs toward Sete and the high Lamjura La — covered in the Sete and Lamjura La stage.
Good to know
- Terrain: A steep climb to Deurali, then a long descent to Bhandar — start early and pace yourself.
- Lodges: Basic tea houses at Shivalaya, Deurali and Bhandar; carry cash.
- Prepare: Read the Nepal trekking guide and the Everest region treks overview before setting out.
Frequently asked questions
Where does the Jiri walk-in actually start?+
The foot trail begins at Shivalaya, a riverside village a short jeep ride beyond Jiri at the end of a rough road. Many trekkers drive to Shivalaya to start walking here, while purists begin on foot from Jiri Bazaar itself, adding a stage.
How hard is the Shivalaya to Bhandar day?+
It is a demanding first day. From Shivalaya the trail climbs steeply several hundred metres to the Deurali pass, marked by prayer flags and tea shops, then descends to Bhandar. The big ascent and descent are a fair preview of the whole walk-in.
How long does it take from Shivalaya to Bhandar?+
Allow roughly five to six hours of walking from Shivalaya over Deurali to Bhandar, depending on pace and fitness. Starting from Jiri instead adds two to three hours of walking down to Shivalaya before the climb begins.
Can you find lodges on this stage?+
Yes. Both Shivalaya and Bhandar have simple trekking lodges and tea houses with shared rooms and home-cooked dal bhat, and there are tea shops at the Deurali pass. Facilities are basic, so carry cash and keep expectations modest.
