Sightseeing · Nepal
Sankhu Vajrayogini Temple
An ancient forest temple above the Newar town of Sankhu, sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists.
Vajrayogini, on a forested hill above the old Newar town of Sankhu, is one of the Kathmandu Valley's most atmospheric tantric temples — and a fine example of the valley's distinctive shared worship, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike. The gilded pagoda-style shrine to the fierce, dancing goddess sits among old trees at the valley's northeastern edge, reached by a stepped path from the medieval town below. It rewards travellers as much for its setting and Newar heritage as for the temple itself.
The goddess and the shrine
Vajrayogini is a tantric goddess who, in the syncretic tradition of the Kathmandu Valley, belongs to both faiths: Buddhists revere her as a central tantric deity, while Hindus honour her as a form of the mother goddess. The main temple is a richly worked pagoda with gilded roofs and metal ornament, surrounded by smaller shrines, chaityas (small Buddhist stupas) and rest houses in the forest clearing. The blend of Hindu and Buddhist imagery on one hillside is typical of Newar religion — and the same shared devotion can be seen at goddess shrines like Dakshinkali below Pharping at the other end of the valley. For the wider context, see Hinduism in Nepal.
Sankhu old town
The temple stands above Sankhu, one of the valley's best-preserved traditional Newar towns, with brick houses, carved windows, courtyards and old water spouts lining its lanes. The town was badly affected by the 2015 earthquake, and restoration has continued since, but it retains a strongly traditional character that many of the valley's larger settlements have lost. Wandering the old streets before or after the temple climb is part of the experience.
Getting there
Sankhu lies at the northeastern corner of the Kathmandu Valley, about an hour by road from central Kathmandu. From the town, a stepped forest path climbs to the Vajrayogini complex; allow time for the walk up through the trees, which is pleasant and shaded. The guide to getting around Nepal covers the taxi and local-bus options for reaching the valley's edge towns like Sankhu.
How it fits the temple circuit
Vajrayogini is one of the valley shrines that round out the famous Hindu temples of Nepal. Travellers exploring the valley's sacred sites often pair it with the Shiva temple of Doleshwor Mahadev near Bhaktapur to the south, the Vishnu shrine of Budhanilkantha's Sleeping Vishnu to the west, and Pashupatinath, Nepal's holiest Hindu temple, at the valley's heart.
Tips
- Wear good shoes for the stepped forest climb to the temple.
- Visit in the morning for cooler walking and better light in the woodland.
- Explore Sankhu town itself for its traditional Newar architecture.
- Dress modestly and behave respectfully at the active tantric shrine.
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Frequently asked questions
What is the Sankhu Vajrayogini temple?+
Vajrayogini is an ancient temple on a forested hill above Sankhu, an old Newar town at the northeastern edge of the Kathmandu Valley. The goddess Vajrayogini is a tantric deity venerated by both Hindus and Buddhists, and the gilded pagoda-style temple is one of the valley's most revered tantric shrines.
Why is Vajrayogini sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists?+
Vajrayogini is a tantric goddess who crosses the religious boundary typical of the Kathmandu Valley, where Newar communities have long worshipped shared deities. Buddhists revere her as a key tantric figure, while Hindus honour her as a form of the mother goddess, and both traditions worship at the same hillside shrine.
Where is Sankhu and how do I get there?+
Sankhu sits at the northeastern corner of the Kathmandu Valley, roughly an hour by road from central Kathmandu. The Vajrayogini temple is above the town, reached by a stepped forest path; the old town itself is one of the best-preserved traditional Newar settlements in the valley.
Can visitors of all faiths go to Vajrayogini?+
Yes, the forested temple complex is open to visitors, who can climb to the shrine and enjoy the woodland and views. Worship at the inner shrine follows tantric ritual; dress modestly and behave respectfully as at any active temple.