Mithila Art Centre

Mithila art — also known as Madhubani painting — is the living folk tradition of the region around Janakpur, and one of the most colourful experiences in the Terai. Created largely by local women, it covers walls, paper and cloth with bold patterns of deities, fish, peacocks and flowers in bright, flat colours.

The tradition behind the art

Mithila is the cultural region that straddles the plains of southern Nepal and neighbouring Bihar in India, and Janakpur is its spiritual heart — the city tied to Sita, or Janaki, in the Ramayana. For generations, women here have painted the walls and courtyards of their homes for weddings and festivals, passing the skill from mother to daughter. The motifs carry meaning: fish and peacocks for fertility and love, the lotus, the sun and moon, and gods such as Rama, Sita, Krishna and Durga. The wedding-chamber painting, or kohbar, is one of the most recognisable designs. What began as art made with natural pigments on mud walls now appears on paper, cloth and ceramics that travel far beyond the region.

What you'll see and do

The best way to encounter the tradition is at a women's art co-operative, where you can often watch artists at work — outlining a design freehand, then filling it with dense pattern and colour. Pieces are usually for sale on the spot: framed paintings and unframed sheets, greetings cards, cushion covers, cloth and other crafts. Prices tend to be fixed and fair, and buying directly means the money reaches the women who made the work rather than a middleman. A small painting rolls up easily and makes one of the better souvenirs you can carry out of the Terai. For the wider story of the motifs and the artists, read our guide to Mithila art and paintings, and see the well-known Janakpur Women's Development Center, one of the co-operatives that trains and supports Maithil artists.

Getting there

Most visitors reach Janakpur by a short flight from Kathmandu or by the long road journey across the Terai; our guide on getting to Janakpur covers the options. The city itself is flat and compact, and cycle-rickshaws and shared autos are the easy way to get around. Co-operatives are found both in town and in the surrounding villages, so it is worth asking at your hotel or having a rickshaw driver take you to a working centre where painting is actually happening.

Best time to visit

The Terai is hot for much of the year, so the cooler, drier winter months are the most comfortable time to explore on foot. The region is also at its liveliest around its big festivals — especially Vivah Panchami, which marks the marriage of Rama and Sita, and Chhath — when temples and streets fill and Mithila decoration is everywhere. Any time of year, though, you can visit a co-operative and see the art being made.

Good to know

• Etiquette: Ask before photographing the artists or their work, and handle paintings carefully.
• Buying: Choose pieces from a co-operative where you can see the work happening; it supports the tradition directly and helps keep it alive.
• Combine it with the temples: Pair a stop here with the marble Janaki Mandir and the older Ram Mandir, and use our best things to do in Janakpur to plan the rest of your day.