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Swayambhunath stupa on its hilltop above Kathmandu with prayer flags

Things to do · Kathmandu

Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple)

The hilltop Monkey Temple — 365 steps, painted eyes, cheeky monkeys and the best panorama over Kathmandu.

Rating
4.7 (18000)
Price
$
Address
Swayambhu, Kathmandu

Swayambhunath — better known as the Monkey Temple — is a hilltop stupa on the western side of Kathmandu and one of the oldest religious sites in the valley. The white dome and golden spire, painted with the Buddha's watchful eyes, rise above a hill alive with prayer flags, shrines and the resident monkeys that give the temple its name.

What to expect

Most visitors climb the 365 stone steps on the eastern approach, passing carved Buddhas and playful monkeys on the way up. At the top, the stupa is surrounded by smaller shrines, butter-lamp houses and stalls — and a panoramic view that sweeps across the whole of Kathmandu, at its best in the soft light of early morning or sunset.

Why is Swayambhunath called the Monkey Temple?

The nickname comes from the rhesus macaques — several hundred of them — that live in the forest cloaking the hill and treat the steps, rooftops and prayer-flag lines as their playground. According to legend, the bodhisattva Manjushri raised the Swayambhu hill from the lake that once filled the Kathmandu Valley; as he worked he let his hair grow long, and the lice that bred in it transformed into the first monkeys. Because of this origin they are considered holy, fed by pilgrims and left in peace, which is why the troop has flourished here for centuries.

Are they safe? Broadly yes — they are thoroughly used to people and mostly interested in snacks, not trouble. Keep food, bottles and sunglasses out of sight, don't feed them and avoid direct eye contact, and they will ignore you while putting on a show: sliding down handrails, squabbling on the stupa dome and swimming in the small pool below the platform. Bites are rare, but if one does scratch or nip you, wash the wound and get medical advice promptly.

Good to know

  • The climb: It is 365 steep steps; for an easier route, taxi up the back road to the car park near the summit.
  • Monkeys: Keep food, bottles and sunglasses tucked away — the monkeys are quick.
  • Entry: A small foreigner fee is collected in rupees at the top.
  • Nearby: Combine Swayambhunath with Kathmandu Durbar Square in the city centre, or see how it fits among the top attractions in Kathmandu. For its eastern counterpart, visit the great stupa at Boudhanath.

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Frequently asked questions

Why is Swayambhunath called the Monkey Temple?+

Troops of holy monkeys live in the trees around the stupa and on its steps, which earned Swayambhunath its nickname among visitors. Legend says they sprang from the head lice of the bodhisattva Manjushri, so they are considered sacred and have been left to thrive here for centuries.

What kind of monkeys live at the Monkey Temple?+

The residents are rhesus macaques — several hundred of them living in the forest that cloaks the hill. Regarded as holy, they are tolerated and often fed by pilgrims, and are most active on the steps in the early morning and late afternoon.

Are the monkeys at Swayambhunath dangerous?+

They are used to people and rarely aggressive, but they will snatch food, drinks and shiny items. Don't feed them, keep bags zipped and avoid staring directly at them. Bites are rare; if you are scratched or bitten, wash the wound well and seek medical advice promptly.

How long do you need at Swayambhunath?+

One to two hours is enough to climb the steps, circle the stupa and take in the view. Come at sunrise or the hour before sunset for the best light over the valley and the liveliest mix of pilgrims and monkeys.

How many steps lead up to Swayambhunath?+

The main eastern stairway has 365 steep stone steps up to the stupa. If the climb is too much, you can take a taxi up the back road to a car park near the top and walk a much shorter final stretch.

Is Swayambhunath worth visiting?+

Yes. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site with one of Nepal's oldest stupas and the finest panoramic view over Kathmandu, especially at sunrise and sunset. The mix of Buddhist and Hindu shrines makes it a fascinating stop.

Is there an entry fee for Swayambhunath?+

Foreign visitors pay a small entry fee at the top of the steps, collected in Nepali rupees. Bring cash, as cards are not accepted.

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